Cangas by Canoe
29th July. An auspicious day because we inflated and launched our Southampton Boat Show 2012 purchased canoe. So, dear reader can you think of a name for it? Suggestions are welcome as long as they are polite. We paddled across behind the ferry terminal towards the beach. I thought of Adams and Clarke who, back in the nineteenth century, canoed right across the wilds of Canada from East to West. Well there were no bears catching salmon on the beach or wolves stalking wild duck, just amused bathers and sun seekers. As we continued around the fishing boat harbour next to the marina, fishermen’s wives sat under bright umbrellas mending nets and the fleet was bright and colourful and neatly moored each to its own pontoon.
30th July. I got my head down and wrote a couple of articles for magazines. Practical Boat Owner asked for one about a place of interest we had visited and Yachting Monthly are interested in a piece I wrote about goose barnacles, but we’ll have to wait and see if they publish them.
We met numerous English and Irish couples in Cangas and John and Linda have also met Sue and Chris from Larry. Small world in this cruising sailor life. John and Linda have an elderly Tradewind 33, Ambler of Arne and they keep her in the Rias and visit whenever they can. We got together and had a pleasant meal in town.
Now I don’t wish to bore you but we do have a problem with our batteries in that we run two circuits but are unsure what is running from either circuit. It is important that the engine battery is kept separate from the others and well charged so the engine will always start. Rob explored and experimented and thought he had worked it out. So he turned off what he thought was the engine circuit for the night to maintain its charge only to find it was low in the morning. Bad news.
So we got to thinking that the elderly electrics on this boat need to be looked at by experts and Melanie and James on an Oyster 49 two years younger than Zoonie recommended the people in Vigo. They have an up to date system due to the marina on the Hamble launching Blew Beyond without closing the log sea-cock. They then left the boat for lunch and returned to find it had sunk to floor level, so all the electrics and batteries had to be replaced. This was under the previous ownership and they now needed to have their calorifier fixed and engine hour monitor fitted.
Our batteries only hold their charge for a day or so and that’s no good with the Pacific in mind or any other long leg for that matter. So we were beginning to come round to the idea that we might have to spend a few days in Vigo. No real problem, but the marina is expensive compared to Cangas at £10.00 per night just across the Ria.
1st August. Blue sky. Our last morning in lovely Cangas and Rob reemed out the Hydrovane bearings so they wouldn’t be so stiff before we motored off to Ensenada du Barra (where the dogs wear more than their owners) anchoring in 8.4m depth on sand off the beach. The tide was high and the thin strip of sand was covered in rows of teak skinned promenaders nursing their overall tans as they marched along the shore line while the rest languished under colourful umbrellas or swam in the clear, inviting water. We joined them and enjoyed the sense of discreet freedom. I swam further than I have for ages. Then we snoozed on the rug or leaned against the comfy inflated side of the tender letting the sun do its work. It was a fine day and as so often happens the next day dawned grey with low cloud and fog.
2nd August. But it was perfect weather for an early walk around the headland, looking across to Isla Cies we have already visited and watching divers fishing for barnacles and fishermen on the rocks casting their rods. Apart from the usual trees there was a grove of young sweet chestnuts protected all around by the taller Eucalyptus. They were covered in fruit and I suspect are harvested when ready. Reminded me of the lovely mature trees in the park in Oakham that Rob and I would raid in the late summer.
The sun broke through so we rowed across to Linda and Chris who had arrived in Ambler and had a coffee, then we were invited aboard the Oyster, Blew Beyond, I have just mentioned, for drinks. They were just on their way to Vigo to sort out the work so they didn’t come ashore with the four of us for a drink at the beach bar. The day was moving on and the sun starting to set so we invited John and Linda back aboard for a pot luck supper. A while later as it was getting dark we watched them row back to the safety of Amblers deep cockpit.
3rd August. A promising start to the day had us enthusiastically applying sun cream. Minutes later we were striding along the shoreline with a handful (maybe not quite the right word under the circs) of other naturists. Then we sat a while and noticed a massive dark grey cloud of smoke rising above Vigo. It turned out to be a tuna factory just behind the marina we were going to and are now in. We carried the dinghy to the water and I said to Rob “Think I’ll swim back”. At the top of the beach it really didn’t look far but turned out to be about 200mtrs. I flagged a bit halfway, so did some side stroke also I had to sort out my breathing, can’t hold one’s breath for that long after all! Zoonie was lying side on in the water ahead encouraging me by her presence and it was thrilling to get there and feel the achievement of doing something I have wanted to do for ages.
Vigo Marina Davila Sport 04 Aug 2015 42:13.97N 08:44.42W
We waited aboard for the rain to stop then motored the 6 miles to Vigo. Roberto the marinero found us a berth and could not have been more helpful and full of enthusiasm.
Within minutes an electrician was aboard to do an appraisal of the system and politely said it must be brought up to date. The service batteries are separated and linked by a long cable which was the first bad news. One of the service batteries, bought in 2012, is caput and we need 3 new modern service batteries and a new engine battery. The whole system will be re-wired and a new monitor installed so we can see exactly what is using how much power. Oh boy, we thought as we supped tequila and lemonade while I cooked a curry supper.
This is an amazing place. It’s a bit like being a child in an adult world, the pontoons are long, high and wide, the cleats we attach to are massive and many of the yachts are grand and to scale.
A blue motor yacht, White Pigeon, flying the Panamanian ensign has just backed into the mooring infront of us, she is 35 mtrs long, and we saw her fuelling up her 35,000 litre tank (thank you Mr Google) from a tanker parked on the quay this morning. They can give 10 lucky folk the cruise of their lives with a crew of 7 to ensure all runs smoothly. Tomorrow a 94 metre sailing yacht from Mexico is due to moor to the long waiting pontoon. Roberto will be in his element when she arrives!
Bouzas, Batteries and plans for Bayona
We wandered into nearby Bouzas this morning. It is a long walk around the harbour full of fishing boats being either refurbished or dismantled. Across the way, near the burned out tuna factory, shipyards are busy with vessels in various stages of construction on their slips and in between little marinas where boats can be stored ashore and locals keep their craft. So now we wait to hear the electrician’s proposal and find out when they can do the work. Watch this space!
07 Aug 2015 Vigo still then.
We shopped in Froiz supermarket having trailed our little polka dot trolley along the now familiar 2 miles or so from the marina around the docks into the little town of Bouzas, appropriate name for a place with some nice bars. If one judges supermarkets by the range of products, this one lacked peanut butter and Jameson Whisky!
Next morning Enriques (Henry) shortened to Quiqui, arrived to break the news for bringing our out-dated electrical system into the 21st century and keep us safe and charged for longer without engine power. They have to source the 4 gel batteries so work starts next Monday morning. We said we would think about it. After about 10 minutes of recovering from the shock we called him and when he returned aboard and we accepted he immediately said our stay in the marina for our entire visit would be free of charge. The charge for our length would normally be around 30 euros per night so that’s a good saving at least and the job would probably cost more in the UK. Ok I know you want me to tell you, 6,280 euros, or around £4,716.00, say it quickly, it sounds less.
Well the M/V Mayan Queen IV arrived, all 94 metres of her. White Pigeon could be her tender. Marina ribs were whizzing around taking lines, the golf trolley rolled down the pontoon laden with water bottles, kitchen rolls and loo paper (rough trip maybe). Hoses came out to wash off her sleek, shark-like hull and a guy risked his neck hosing down the sloping coach roofs. A barrier was installed to give her security but no one stopped us taking photos. Better get fuelled up before her or we’ll be here another week! Mr Google will tell you her mexican owner is into gold and silver mines, up market high street clothes shops and other investments. She flies a red ensign, bit bigger than ours!
With time on our hands and Zoonie very comfortably situated and our bodies telling us we needed some exercise, yesterday we took ourselves back to Isla Cies by ferry. A young lady opposite us turned sideways in her seat and slumbered in her willing boyfriend’s arms. When she awoke they spoke quietly for a moment then she asked appealingly “Did I make a noise when I was asleep?” in unison we said “You snored very loudly” and Rob said “and you dribbled”. Her boyfriend was delighted we built on his tease, “Look at my sleeve” he pointed to the invisible wet patch “I don’t think I did” she said, slapping him affectionately.
Beautiful Cies was flaunting a veil of grey and white fog all day, between herself and the mainland and island to the south and through the lagoon gap. It kept us cool as we trekked for two hours to a view point looking down, from heaven it seemed, onto her glory and then to her northern lighthouse Faro do Pieto on Monte Aguido looking towards Isla Ons but hidden under the white shroud today. “We sailed through here, Barbs”. From the Playa Figuera, where we swam and sun-bathed, the white fog was playfully dancing and curling into shapes: a swan and pegasus at full gallop with yachts and ferries eerily emerging or being sucked away to oblivion.
Back on the mainland we walked the three mile walk from the Vigo ferry terminal past the shipyards and derelict offices and warehouse. The tuna factory had offices at the end and since the fire, browned vertical louvres blew out of the windows and black-rimmed holes showed where flames had found their way to the outside. It must have been an exercise getting everyone out safely.
Aboard, after a cool beer at the bar, not surprised are you (!) we had supper and largely due to three hours of walking workout, we slept soundly.
7th August. After such a lovely day exploring we were both happy to do some Zoonie cleaning this morning, Rob on deck and washing and me sorting clothes and washing her surfaces and floors. Have you ever seen how manky the inside of a sink plug can get?
Afternoon wears on and the wind is rising, wooden bowsprit ketch Nauja receives food on board, plastic boxes of it, and the wind is rising. A band of musicians arrive and start to tune up on her foredeck, and the wind goes on rising. Lights are strung from the rigging and guests start to arrive, and the wind is rising. Her nav lights are turned on, red and green and white and a marinero arrives in his rapid inflatable, as the wind goes on rising. He casts off the bowline moments after Nauja’s engine fires up while the wind is rising.
Quickly he leaps back into his little boat, now used as a tug and helps her back out of her berth in the failing light while the wind is rising. I am concerned about this boat full of partygoers leaving the marina in an evening of such inclement weather. Little did I know that Nauja belongs to a company providing sailing tuition, training and navigation courses along with entertainment and events. She was safe back on her mooring in the morning. The picture is Nauja underway.
8th August. We borrowed two sturdy and well-greased marina pedal bikes and set off seaward away from Vigo along a mixture of roads and pavement, where we slalomed between bins and bus stops. The day was a fine Saturday and sun worshippers were out in force.
From offshore we had seen a monster of a high rise amidst much lower red-roofed buildings. We rode over a causeway to arrive at its gates and find strict security at what appeared to be part of the University of Vigo on Tassila Island. Nice to know.
Rob’s saddle was not being very kind to him so we headed back from here to a little restaurant whose BBQ fire was smoking with the aroma of sardines on our outward journey.
This venue had the feel of a popular place with the locals and many of the long white-clothed tables had reserved notices on them. The staff were like a colony of ants, each knowing exactly what was to be done and doing it with efficient haste. They were very busy. The eatery reminded me of a narrow fronted dining room near Roscoff where knowing lorry drivers pulled off the road, walked through the unassuming doors into a long room catering for a couple of hundred and serving delicious food.
We were ushered inside to one of the few wooden tables in front of the bar and awaited our lunch of 4 sardines (yes I had been looking forward to them all morning) for me and a whole roasted chicken with chips for Rob. Local red wine was served to others in a glass jug with ice cubes, then poured into white ceramic bowls. I liked their rustic, no frills style.
Work started on Zoonie’s electrics on Monday and hopefully they will finish this afternoon (Thursday). Hose and his helper have been hard at it. Antonio comes and tells us what is “very important” repeatedly. I have learned that the much used “bali” means ok. When Rob checked the cost of the Odyssey lead acid batteries we are buying here to the same in England these are much less in Euros here than they are in pounds at home. We have been quoted for 30 hours work and so far they have done 39 hours, shh don’t tell.
So we have had a few days doing very little. In the local supermarket, Fiosk, I watched the lady on the fish counter use the biggest, genoa shaped knife to carefully fillet a conger eel which two old ladies had conspired to share. The backbone came away perfectly, the white flesh body was then cut in two and the head also (fish stock?) and each half clingfilm wrapped on its polystyrene tray for the ladies.
You might sigh, and it is true that harbour fever starts when in the same place too long. The desire to move on is there constantly, such is this nomadic way of life. But with time on our hands you would think all the little jobs that sit waiting would get done. Only partly so as they seem best completed when there is a shortage of time making the use of it more efficient. And now we seem almost too accepting of the delay. Tomorrow we plan to fuel up and head for Bayona to celebrate my birthday in the Monte Real Club de Yates marina restaurant. Last year we were towed there alongside another Oyster 406 like us, after our engine failed due to a fuel blockage of paint flakes. Let’s hope we make it there unassisted this time; but then the best laid plans of mice and men……..