Bridging the Gap with a Croc Pizza And Keeping up Appearances on HMAS Onslow
It was a perfect evening for a walk over the Sydney Bridge as the power of the sun was on the wane and the walking side by now in its shadow. Not being inclined to pay the expensive fee to traverse over the top of the arch we were content to wander along the broad clean pathway at street level, taking in the sun shining on the Opera House and expanse of blue water and Athol Bay, site of our NYE anchorage in the distance.
We valued the opportunity this visit had given us to remember where we could safely and inexpensively anchor Zoonie, in a bay with a ferry terminal so we would have access to the city just by swiping our credit cards over the ‘opal’ e-ticket post and stepping aboard the fast ferries. We have yet to fully explore places like the Botanic Gardens and the estuary itself from the water.
Back to the bridge which is covered with permanently fitted firework holders like the one in the picture. Imagine having the job of filling them with live fireworks, you wouldn’t want to get it wrong.
By the time we had crossed the bridge there and back and meandered a little we were well ready for a bite and so found our way back to the Australia Pub in The Rocks area (as shown in a previous blog), the Rocky knoll to the right of the Circular Quay Transport hub that we had visited with our four friends.
The black lumps you see on Rob’s pizza are olives and eggplant, the croc is white meat which hardly shows but tastes like pleasant and delicate nothing else!
Sitting at a pavement table there was a gentle breeze to cool us and giant fruit bats flying overhead. They live in the city along with numerous other exotic looking birds like the colourful lorikeets and Egyptian Nile Valley looking white Ibis with their long beaks, spoonbill lookalikes without the spoon bowl.
Next morning we decided to be a very sensible pair and visit the Hyde Park Medical Centre Skin Cancer Clinic to get some advice on little blemishes that have appeared, one on my hand and one or two on the top of Rob’s head. They all welcome walk in clients’ to these places, in fact encourage them. Our little worries are solar keratosis spots which while non-cancerous at present can develop if untreated, so that will be the next step. Frankincense Essential Oil can be effective as Martina in Newcastle discovered and there are regular creams on the market too.
Next on the itinerary for the day was the Maritime Museum and we were advised to visit the ships first before they became too crowded.
Dotted around HMAS Oslow’s long black whale-like British built hull were volunteers some of whom were as interesting career wise as the vessel herself by virtue of all the places on the world’s oceans where they had served and seen action. I admired them because they were elderly, like the sub and were putting up with the growing stifling heat and answering lots of questions from inquisitive bods like me and all this for the sole reward of being useful and re-living their past.
I was surprised at just how beautiful the inside of a sub could be. Everything was neatly fitted into a tiny area and cleaned and polished until it shone. See the picture of all the brass and coloured dials and gauges, I only took it because of its beauty. I am a little ashamed that I can’t remember much in the way of her technical details I’m afraid, but she was much loved by her minders I can tell you.
After climbing around, over, up and down the inside of her hull we were ready for some refreshment before proceeding to the fine replica of Cook’s Endeavour.
The Replica Endeavour gives me Birthday Ideas
This modern exact replica of Cook’s Endeavour, built in 1988 over five years from the original drawings, actually has a voyage plan and has been around the world twice and Australia itself, covered 170,000 miles and opened as a museum in 116 ports, sailing with the advantage of an engine, electronic navigational instruments etc located down below, where in the original vessel rats and seawater co-existed in the bilges. We were lucky to be able to scramble over her despite the fact she spends much of her time at sea; and that gave me the idea. Well a sailor girl has to have a plan for her 70th birthday doesn’t she?
As far as navigation was concerned Cook had the most advanced equipment of his time except an accurate clock to assist in the determination of his ship’s longitude and today, when the 36 paying crew venture out on this re-incarnation they learn to use the same instruments as Cook and his fellow navigators. They also sleep in hammocks but also have hot showers on tap!
When I made my way into the grand aft saloon that spans the ship the volunteer was fast asleep in the heat. Just outside are the personal cabins of the officers and the botanist and patron Joseph Banks and I imagine some interesting discussions on the days’ events took place in the grand saloon, the room in which the future fate of New Zealand, Australia and much of the south Pacific region was determined.
Many years ago when I visited China our group wandered in numerous tiny city gardens, where a small area of the bustling cities was walled off and through the minds of the creators meandering paths, irregular pools, shady shelters and hard rock or concrete ‘rock’ structures gave the impression of an oasis in a remote place. Tourists and city workers alike relaxed in the pretty peacefulness. Well exactly the same atmosphere has been created in The Chinese Garden of Friendship in the Darling Quarter at the south end of Darling Harbour.
Just a short walk from this haven is Chinatown in which we had an unusual Yebisu Japanese supper of seafood cooking in a cauldron on a little gas camping stove on the table right infront of us. As it came to the boil so it started to bubble over the lip of the pan, run across the table near Rob and onto the floor! We enthusiastically reduced the volume of liquid by drinking it until a kind young lady came and mopped us up!
A taxi whizzed us back to our own little oasis for our last restful evening before departing Sydney for Newcastle at 9.45 the next morning and taking all those wonderful memories with us.
North to Newcastle
The Old adage ‘coals to Newcastle’ once held true here with this town exporting vast amounts of coal and steel but the BHP steel works closing in September 1999 changed all that. The town now has other means of earning an income from tourism and university students for a start. The huge wave of disgust at the unpopular newly opened Adani coal mine in Queensland flies in the face of Australia’s coal mining history but is only too aware of how dangerous to the environment coal mining is and how undemocratic is the Queensland Governments decision. Books have been written about it.
Our train took us through three hours of lush wooded coastal region, around the fine estuary of the Hawkesbury River and others, always viewing them with the mind to bring Zoonie in to anchor for a night or two while moving south when we return in November. We were still in the Sydney area as far as train fares went so because the maximum fare per day on Opal ticketing is $17.50 that is all the journey cost (£9).
With our bags dumped in the room at Travelodge we went walkabout along the quay area, now home to luxury apartments and hotels and with a wide open promenade with plenty of room for walkers and cyclists, which would be us later.
In the Queens Wharf Bar, QWB as it is affectionately named, I pulled a comfy settee out of the sun into the shade for us while Rob went for the beer. A South African couple started chatting to us. They were enjoying their last shore time before returning to the Fred Olsen ‘Black Watch’ cruise liner that was due to leave at five on the dot. The lady lectured on wildlife as the ship stopped in various interesting habitats on route.
So they rushed off and before their seats even cooled a group of mature ladies, once part of a premier league national hockey team, took their places and started to let their hair down. Next to the wharf is the ferry that runs across to Stockton on the other side of the estuary. The shoreline is so vast here that the road journey would take 25 minutes, besides they were on a mission to enjoy themselves so driving was out of the question. Two were sisters and one of the husbands is retired from being a tug master but still does the odd shift. Coincidentally he was on one of the tugs that was in the process of helping the Black Watch move against the wind away from the quay at that moment.
We walked back towards our room slowly along the promenade while watching this graceful ship cast off her tug lines and start to make her own way to sea. As she passed the coastguard lookout she sound her siren. Three black crows were enjoying some bread crusts and each time a gun was fired in reply to the ship they ducked!
It was time for some food and just across the road from the Travelodge we found one of those attractive eateries that is run within a building that has hardly changed since its last role, this one looked as if it had been a car workshop. Mexican Street food was its new role and we had tasty Mulitas washed down with some good wine at Antojitos.
A massive High was creeping eastwards over Australia, the first of many, bringing temperatures up to 46’ in parts and storms all around the Australian rim but for us for the moment we had our window open for the cool night air and the birdsong in the trees outside.
‘Get Down Shep’ and a home in need of TLC
Greg and Jane were clearly delighted to be home and getting to know and gently train their puppy border collie Shep, who comes from a pedigree line but with his under bite lower jaw cost them a fraction of the usual price. Rob and I were trained to hold our arms high and turn away from him if he tried to jump up and then reward him with attention; do you, my mature readers remember John Noakes on Blue Peter with his Shep, his frequent command to his collie is repeated in the title to this blog?
As you can see their home near Jilliby and Wyong, in rural bush country is surrounded by native trees including tall eucalyptus and was built on an artificial plateau in the corner of a field on what was once a dairy farm. It is a comfortable design with high ceilings and roof fans in the bedrooms, all that we found we needed to keep a perfect temperature at night and the roof overhangs the veranda giving deep shade all around creating a very relaxing atmosphere inside.
Every now and then waves of cicada noise rose to a deafening racket and we met some new native birds on the feeder. The sulphur plumed white cockatoo is cheeky, common and well represented in Australian art and culture and the rainbow lorikeet along with a pretty dove made regular appearances.
You may remember we met Jane and Greg originally on the 2014 Portugal Rally and then after we had started our circumnavigation in 2015 in The Canaries as they were on route back to Australia. More recently we were sitting in Savu Savu last July/August when we heard Jane’s voice on the VHF asking the marina for a mooring buoy number; so we had all been looking forward to getting back together.
Jane and Greg’s absence from their home which they have owned for 30 years has spanned the time while Greg has worked away from home including both of them living for a while in England and of course their sailing journey home from the UK via the Med. So their daughter and her husband have lived there with their three big dogs and because they have their careers and the dogs lived outside there is much maintenance and repair work to be done and décor to be brought up to date. In fact the jobs facing them are daunting in number and just how do you prioritise? Swimming pool first of course.
As you can see it is a wildlife pond at the moment but that will not last and when we return to see them later this year in Zoonie I have no doubt we will be floating in the warm fresh water watching the two red kangaroos grazing peacefully in their home paddock. They were so shy when I crept down the garden hiding behind bushes with the hope of getting a close up of them. As soon as they saw me, and they don’t need to go to Specsavers, they were off, doying doying across the field. As one was bigger than the other they will forever be to me ‘Kanga’ and ‘Roo’.
Jane has two horses helping to keep the grass down and twice a day she feeds them, takes their head covers off in the evening and after they have fed puts them back on for the day to keep the flies off. Shep helps by cleaning out the feed bucket. He loves to chase a ball so that became a pleasant way for me to pass the time, me throwing and him retrieving and relinquishing while we gradually made our way around the house and the little bushes each in their own bed with their own water supply. Talking of which their homestead has survived on rainwater ever since Jane and Greg bought it. Only twice have they had to buy in “ugh chlorine town water”.
There were two 5000 gallon concrete water tanks when they arrived and Jane was offered two more of the same volume for a good price so they have a capacity of 20,000 gallons which is easily maintained from their 500 sq.m roof area.
Now they are home they have time to plan a work schedule, the raised veg garden won’t take long to tidy and plant but replacing the cracked floor tiles inside and out where the ground has moved with drying out and shrinkage and then expanded while soaking up moisture will be a bigger job. We sat chatting one evening on the patio as an immense thunder storm rumbled through dragging its curtain of rain. Shep licked our hands for attention which we willingly gave. In our dogless life any opportunity to make a canine friend is very welcome.
Hotting up in the Hunter Valley
Weather forecasters said the temperature would be 44’ the next day but would drop by 20’ as soon as the wind turned to a southerly off Antarctica. So in our evening planning over supper the four of us decided a day of liquid replacement was on the cards and the world renowned Hunter Valley Wine area it was.
Stepping out of the car at the top of the valley where the winds blow most of the time it was like having a hairdryer set on ‘grill’ aimed at us and the walk to the cellar door at Tyrrells was quite a challenge. The thought of some nice cool whites helped and the name rang a bell. ‘Tyrrell’ and then Rufus Stone listed as a type of wine. “Does this Tyrrell have anything to do with the Tyrrell who accidentally shot King William Rufus in Hampshire, England?” I asked, willing to be laughed at.
“Funny you should say that,” said the nice young gentleman reaching for a photo card under the counter, “this estate has been owned by the Tyrrell family since 1858 and they are descendants of that very person!” Small world.
Next on Jane’s short list of cellar door visits was Tempus Two, in a very modern setting frequented by the rich and famous, but today it was just us and a few others enjoying the aircon for a quick few slurps before ‘running the gauntlet’ through the outdoor oven back to the car. It was thirteen years since our hosts had visited the valley so Jane was keen to lay on some wine and join a club, with all its benefits of prices and tastings and free delivery bearing in mind the family occasions that are always coming up.
By the time we arrived at the Irish eatery and pub ‘Harrigans’ we were ready for some food. The indoor restaurant was full, of course, so we sat outside in the shade with a lone female guitarist singing some nice melodies with her own accompaniment. I drank LLB, lemon and lime and bitters, for the first time and very tasty and pleasantly not sweet it was. I was saving my palate for one more wine tasting.
I have to tell you about my lunch because it was so tasty. A vegetable stack of roasted pumpkin, onions, kale and spinach, spotted with white cheese and drizzled with truffle oil. ‘scuse me while I reach for a tissue.
Lastly we popped in to Petersons, a very down to earth, ‘built the place ourselves’ rustic affair in complete contrast to Tempus Two, with very hearty ladies doing the honours. Greg had been on the soft stuff all day so while Jane, Shep and I fed the horses Greg busied himself popping strawberries in to champagne goblets and drowning them in bubbly.
Again we sat on the shady veranda, Rob and I taking it in turn to scratch behind Shep’s ears and listening to the rumbling of thunder and watching the clouds gather and darken ready for the next storm. At only five months old Shep was still new to these frightening heavenly goings on and sleeping in his kennel outside or on the cool of the veranda tiles. Sometimes he would come to our window and look in or even tap on the glass, “are you coming out to play?” Jane says they will get another dog when he is a little older so they can company for eachother.
The rain will help the worn grass to re-grow around their house. Shep likes it because it softens the ground and enables him to dig, quite what for we are not sure. There are little holes everywhere which is where the cicadas emerge from. In the photo is one of their discarded skin shells left behind after the mature cicada has flown up into the trees ready to call for a mate and then die.
There is a creek running through the home paddock that the roos, horses and roaming neighbour’s cattle like to drink from and Greg has promised to take us for a walk down there next time. But the morrow held different delights and our first close up encounters with roos.
A Look at Country And Kangas, Koalas and Crocs In a friendly Park
Language is changing in Australia as with everywhere else and terms like ‘walkabout’ and ‘going bush’ are now being replaced with the single word ‘Country’. In their slow and painful reclaiming of land that is theirs’ the Aborigines (Bininj) invite white people (Balanda) to share their country on their terms.
In Marcia Langton’s recently published book ‘Welcome to Country’ she does just that. In the first part of her book she explains the history of Australia pre-Balanda and then lays out ways and means for us to see her country through aborigine eyes. When we return in Zoonie and anchor in one of the many pretty bays in Sydney Harbour we will do just that, re-explore Marcia’s country.
As Professor in Anthropology she has held the Foundation Chair of Australian Indigenous Studies at the University of Melbourne since 2000. Her contribution to government and non-government policy and Indigenous studies is extensive and two years ago she was awarded the first Associate Provost at the same Uni. So she is well qualified to be our tour guide!
But for now we were about to enjoy our last day of this visit to Jane and Greg’s and we were taken on a tour of the rugged, curvy and lush coastline in and out around and up and down viewing Coffs Harbour, the vast and beautiful Hawkesbury Estuary, both with a view to anchorages of course.
I had asked if we could visit The Reptile Park and get up close and friendly with some iconic Australian animals and we weren’t disappointed. After a swift lunch of pie and chips we set out on a very relaxing wander through this well- established park. The reptile house held some snakey and spidery delights. I particularly liked the green snake hanging over the branch with one eye on us.
Then back outside to the spacious crocodile lake where not a lot seemed to be happening. We humanoids stood in small groups on the path with two stout wire fences, no more than four foot high between us and the water. Then in the distance the smooth water was disturbed by a number of familiar shapes (start the ‘Jaws’ music) snaking their way towards us with just the top of their backs and heads showing.
Since being in Australia I have started using the film mode on the lumix camera and the film of ‘our’ croc coming right across the lake towards US is one I am proud of, not just because I kept it going until he stopped a few feet infront of us, his snout almost touching the bank, but also because only film, allowing movement, shows the strength and pent up power of this peak of the food chain predator. Toppled from that lofty position we normally hold ourselves by a pre-historic animal is humbling to say the least. A person taken by a croc is not only irretrievable but they are usually never seen again. The photo is where our croc finally came to a stop and then stared at us with a spine tingling intensity of gaze.
We wandered on towards koala heaven. I can see why this place was so relaxing as this languid group of these soft cuddly creatures were in all states of repose. One optimistic fellow crept up a tree towards a female, sniffed her bottom to see if she was ready for him and then retreated discreetly, tomorrow maybe. That caused a laugh. Another had a good scratch that made us all feel better and I caught that on film. We were allowed to stroke the koala in the ranger’s arms but to hold one would require a small payment and there was a long queue so we stroked the grazing kangaroos instead.
They have their own area where they can rest and visitors are kept away and it was nice to see them so relaxed and unstressed. After the storm of the night before, the temperature dropped from 44’ to 20’ so there was no rush to get back in the shade or cool of the indoors and sizeable crowds gathered for the shows. One ranger with a clear love for his giant good natured lizard gave a humorous talk about it until he was suddenly interrupted by the arrival of a couple of highly animated life size dinosaurs intent on disruption. The kids loved that one.
That evening out on the veranda we watched Kanga and Roo boxing eachother while we nibbled cheese and biscs and chatted with John who had come over for supper and who we first met on the 2014 Rally when he was crewing for Jane and Greg. My contribution to supper was the trifle while Jane was on salads and the boys, yep you guessed it, hovered, heads together over the BBQ.
The evening rolled gently on with cruising anecdotes aplenty.
Next day Jane had to go and look after her daughter’s home and the three dogs while daughter and hubby flew up north to do some doctoring at a clinic so Greg ran us to the station for our journey to Newcastle where we would meet Pete. Greg I know was busting to start on the restoration work and we wished him luck.