26 Aug 2015
Figuera da Foz – where pigs might fly
40:08.68N 08:52.48W
It was good to be back at sea and enjoying little flocks of Cory’s shearwater and tiny petrels. I remembered from last year the 63 mile long beach of golden sand backing onto high dunes and then onto one of the most extensive pine forests in Europe.
It was a long day and we arrived quite late. The security guard apologised for not meeting us and then took 37.50 Euros for one night’s stay. We then left his pontoon and motored to our allotted mooring a few metres away. To get back to the office by foot required a long walk back through the marina, along the quay at the end and then all the way back up the same distance again. A pedestrian bridge was promised but then we heard that last year. I think it more likely pigs will be seen flying around here. They were being somewhat naive to think that everyone would be prepared to walk that distance to use the facilities.
The marina was half empty, there were few people around and there was no evidence to suggest this was a well-used and enjoyed place to stay, as we had seen elsewhere. We were told firmly to bring our card back or we would lose the 10 Euro deposit. Inside his clinical office the walls were bare, no evidence of club or sailing activities. He told us it was only a mile or so to walk to the bars in town. When I asked if there was anywhere to anchor outside the marina, having seen a couple of out of the way ideal spots on the way in, he replied anchoring was not allowed. I wondered how it was that fishermen could anchor but not us. It must be a local council policy as everywhere else we have visited in Portugal this global right to anchor has been well respected.
It seems the less a marina has to offer, the cooler the welcome, and the more spaces the higher the prices. A Catch 22 situation. Offer more friendliness, treat visitors well, set a sensible price and the revenue will roll in.
26 Aug 2015
39:20.82N 09:22.48W
Peniche
(We suggest twinning with Portland Bill,
a rock of similar wedge shape off the Dorset coast!)
The wind was increasing and on the nose and Zoonie had to head butt into steep waves. We covered the distance in just short of twelve hours. I arrived exhausted from all the games of Mahjong, Patience, Candy Crush and word searches I had been doing to lessen the discomfort and pass the time. Just as we entered the harbour the heavens opened and we were very grateful to the Portuguese sailor who left the shelter of his boat to help us moor in a gap only a little longer than Zoonie herself.
We couldn’t believe how quickly a smiling member of the National Republican Guard came to us and happily filled in our clearance form, while chatting about his boyhood in the land of pregnant rocks.
“Land of pregnant rocks?” I repeated aghast.
“Yes, only in Russia and at my home do the granite rocks have basalt babies. It is very hot back there now, not like here, but then you are from the north you must be used to this weather” he surmised beaming.
24th August, marinero Victor arrived early with a warm greeting and handed us the card for the gate plus town map and news that the free Wi-Fi is perfect at the Java House bar/cafe. So we spent a happy day wandering to the supermarket and then had a drink at Java House and got caught up on IT stuff. Lunch was enjoyed at the Restaurant Sardinhas next to a charming French couple from Lyon.
We conversed in French and English, I like to give them the opportunity to practice their English! They had an apartment nearby and had visited this restaurant five times so far. Our tri-lingual waitress referred to them and us as “My clients.” Rob had Sirloin steak in an almond gravy and I had sardines, and we shared a carafe of local white wine.
I really liked Peniche. Last year and second impressions revealed a strong civic pride. The place seemed cleaner and a lot of fresh paint has refreshed the church and numerous houses. It is a popular holiday place but not so crowded as to be spoiled. The shops are doing well and there is a big fishing fleet and evidence of light industry. I guided Rob past the barber of Peniche whose doors were open! Last year he gave Rob an impressive haircut;
‘I sat back and watched as Scissorhands spun Rob in his chair. Rob had gestured with finger and thumb about 1cm, but after a while I realised the barber thought that was the length he wanted left, not off! On the first revolution his duck’s arse fell to the floor, next revolution the pile of tumbling locks grew and when I was just about to yell “Stop, enough” (a girl has to have something to run her fingers through) the scissors were laid down and the cut throat razor was set and greased. Neck hairs gone, now for the ears with a lit match, where next I wondered. Now this was ambitious, hairdryer and round brush, ok. All that for 7 euros!’
I love the wildlife that marinas encourage. Everywhere young fish are growing and thriving in these protected warm waters. Back in Poole there is a kingfisher living in the marina. Where coastal marshes and traditional fish breeding grounds have been destroyed for development the advent of marinas must in some way have made up for their loss.
Behind us in the marina is Jadoune from Marseille, a fine sea-going vessel complete with Captain Sparrow wooden barrel on the stern. Her sails and standing rigging are in good shape, probably having been her means to get here. But her sun-bleached and split toe rails and rubbing strakes will come up fine after her expected refit. It took me a while to pluck up the courage to ask the Guard on his vessel alongside us (yes, that is how he got to us so quickly when we arrived!) exactly what is happening to her but he was delighted to say she was awaiting a refit.
We relaxed back on board to hear the comradeship between the returning fishermen.
08 Sep 2015
38:40.6N 9:18.76W
Oeiras Marina, England and Sintra
After a day of a walking speed wind up our tail we were pleased to see some of the palaces of the Sintra area hugging the hillsides ashore while passing Cabo da Roca, where the granite mountain range meets the ocean at the furthest most point of mainland Europe. As we rounded Cabo Raso towards Cascais the wind picked up and we had the treat of seeing the ‘J’ Class Endeavour under full sail coming our way. She was built to challenge the Americans in the Americas’ Cup just as Rainbow, whom we had seen in Vigo, was built by the Americans to challenge us at the same time in history.
We arrived at Oeiras Marina mid-afternoon and immediately fuelled up. The first word of the lady in the marina was “welcome”. A few weeks back we had booked a top secret visit back to England to surprise Rob’s sister Sue at her 60th birthday party. Well we couldn’t think of what to buy her. We also looked forward to seeing our lovely family and friends again and walk Toby, the dog, with Tracey and his new friends, Missie, Poppy, Bailey and Jim.
After some discussion we agreed a mid-term fee of 352 Euros for 10 days stay which included free gate pass, complimentary drinks at a local, well priced restaurant and early morning delivery of fresh bread rolls. We also arranged for the marina courtesy car to take us to the airport at 3.30am on the Friday at half the cost of a taxi. The memories of our happy stay in the marina last year came flooding back as we strolled along the promenade past a rocky shoreline full of dinosaur footprints visible at low tide and cruise liners making their way up river for their brief stay.
The marina was busy, no room for decaying boats here, just people enjoying themselves coming and going. We met Mike and Susie again from the Moody, Toy Buoy and had a good chat about life’s experiences while enjoying our free drinks at Entye Vinhos.
28th August.
Broadstone, Dorset.
Grandson Henry saw us arrive from the back garden through the living room windows. “It’s Granny and Grandad!” How good it felt to sit in the garden as Henry and Ruby played on their fort and swinging rope, while catching up on the news.
The next day we re-visited Corfe Castle, a fine ruin of a once magnificent castle and danced at an Elizabethan re-enactment of village life. Our host made a surprisingly effective flute out of a straw from MacDonald’s.
Early next morning Ruby and I met on the landing, “You’re not going yet are you granny?” When I reassured her we would have breakfast together she spun around, her blond curls in a whirl, and returned to her bedroom to wait until the sun on her bedside clock face rose and shone to tell her she could get up.
On to Oakham
“You Rat Bag”, Sue yelled as we appeared around the side of her house at her party. Husband Bernard had cottoned on quickly when Rob phoned him while we hid behind the garage. He handed Sue the phone, so she thought we were calling from Portugal. Shrieks, hugs and tears followed – mission accomplished, Sue was very surprised.
We heard all about Charly and Tom’s wedding plans, which will mark our next trip home in May 2016. Rob’s mum, Rosemary, was well and made us very welcome at her home as per always. Rob’s shop, Fords of Oakham, is thriving under Richard and Julianna’s leadership and Jonty was looking forward to four years more study at Oxford University, where he has been invited to do a PHd in (building and groundworks) engineering.
On a routine follow up visit to our doc, when asked where we were on our circumnavigation, Rob replied “Lisbon”, so Dr Bietz replied,
“Haven’t got far then!” And relatively speaking he was quite right.
4th September
To Sintra.
A short train ride took us to the end of the line station of Cascais where we boarded the 217 bus for Sintra. The ride aboard the narrow tourist bus took a precarious hairpin ride up past the M hill top fort to the pastel painted Pena Palace. Previously home of a succession of Portuguese Monarchs this Disneylike castle reminded me of Port Meiron in Wales as it captured the essence of Romanticism.
We whizzed around the northern ramparts as a chilly wind blasted from that direction. The inside rooms were still furnished and gave a good impression of the life of the royals. The estate comprised heavily wooded hunting grounds and gardens full with trees and plants from all around the world.
The village itself clings to steep gradients of granite with pretty cobbled streets and beautiful views to the north. After the republic was established in 1910 local and visiting artists and writers including Lord Byron made Sintra their home and wealthy merchants bought huge estates and built their own palaces.
One such was the Palace of Montserrate, lived in by successive English merchants, the first of whom, Gerard de Visme, held the concession to import Brazilian teak into Portugal. The Palace was rebuilt by Francis Cook, a textile millionaire, in its present romantic style as a summer palace for his family. We watched a young bride enjoying the atmosphere of the surroundings on her special day.
Even after two visits there is so much more to see and as the chill wind spurred between my toes at the bus stop, we vowed to return one day, with family, to this beautiful place on the hills.